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London Fashion Week throws spotlight on young designers
After New York, the fashion world descends on London from Friday, showcasing big names such as Burberry but also the work of young designers who could become household names of the future. Last year's event, billed as a comeback after disruption due to the Covid pandemic, was overshadowed by the death of Queen Elizabeth II and 10 days of national mourning. This year, more than 80 designers are set to present their spring/summer 2024 collections, with around 50 catwalk shows and other presentations. "It's going to be five really exciting days full of creativity," said Caroline Rush, chief executive of organizers the British Fashion Council (BFC). Fashion bible Vogue rolled out the red carpet on Thursday night for a gala launch event. But in the world of fashion, London is enduring a post-Covid slump, with inflation -- the highest in the G7 at 6.8 percent in July -- and Brexit combining to create a depressed economic backdrop. That has left the British capital trailing Paris, Milan, and New York in the fashion week stakes. In a sign of its loss of influence, even British former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham has crossed the Channel to present her designs in Paris since last year. Fresh UK funding On Wednesday, the UK government announced £2 million ($2.5 million) to support young designers, which will go to the BFC's existing NewGen program. The scheme, which over the last 30 years has supported the best young fashion designers, aims to launch the high-end global brands of tomorrow. The UK government funding will go towards the staging of five fashion weeks over two years, said the BFC. Previous recipients include the legendary Alexander McQueen, who died in 2010. On Saturday, the Design Museum in London is presenting an exhibition celebrating young NewGen talents, and the energy they have brought to the industry. "REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion" showcases about 100 designs, some of which have gone down in pop culture history. This year, about 20 designers are benefiting from the NewGen program. Most are recent graduates, but who have already managed to dress some of the biggest stars. Outfits by Ukrainian designer Masha Popova have been worn by singer Dua Lipa. Di Petsa has dressed actress Zendaya. Among the more established names are 16Arlington, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Richard Quinn, Roksanda, and Simone Rocha. But Burberry, the London fashion house founded in 1856, remains the most eagerly awaited show. It takes place on Monday afternoon and will be only the second collection for British creative director Daniel Lee, following on from his February show. The ex-Bottega Veneta designer replaced Riccardo Tisci a year ago. Sales have soared in China for the brand with the distinctive check print. On the final day, Tuesday, Ukrainian designers will present their collections, with London once again hosting Ukrainian Fashion Week due to Russia's invasion. The BFC is also trying to make London an increasingly inclusive venue for catwalk shows. It has launched a survey aimed at all those working in the sector, with questions on their gender, sexual orientation, religion, and social background. "The audit is long overdue and marks the first step towards the vital measurement of the UK fashion industry's collective progress towards the goal of fair representation," the BFC said. The results will be announced later this year. Another must-see fashion event in London is the exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto", which opens on Saturday at the V&A museum. It retraces the 60-year career of "Coco" Chanel, featuring some of her greatest creations that revolutionized women's wardrobes. (AFP Photos) [caption id="attachment_184160" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Canadian model Winnie Harlow poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184161" align="aligncenter" width="525"] British model Jodie Turner-Smith poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184162" align="aligncenter" width="525"] British model Georgia May Jagger poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184163" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Irish writer Sinead Burke poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184164" align="aligncenter" width="525"] British actress Simone Ashley poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] The post London Fashion Week throws spotlight on young designers appeared first on Daily Tribune......»»
Taiwan tribe despairs as drought shrinks bamboo crop
Hacking at a bamboo plant with a machete, Avayi Vayayana peels back the shoot's stiff bark as he scans southern Taiwan's mountains, anxious for more of the money-making crop his Indigenous tribe increasingly struggles to find. Generations of the Tsou tribe have lived off Alishan township's bamboo forests, which Vayayana says were planted by his forefathers and typically harvested in April and May. But "the weather in the last few years has really been out of whack", the 62-year-old tribal chief tells AFP. "The rainfall has been delayed and the bamboo shoots' growth is noticeably affected." In the Indigenous village T'fuya, the dark-brown cones of the island's native stone bamboo -- or Phyllostachys lithophila -- have become harder to spot. "The little young shoots will not sprout if there's no rain. After a while, they will die inside the ground," Vayayana says. The February-to-April rains are crucial to the growth of bamboo shoots -- which are popular in Asian cuisine -- but since late last year, there have not been any significant downpours. The Tsou tribe, which has a population of 7,000 in Alishan, has seen their bamboo shoot harvest steadily decline. On a misty May morning, a welcome drizzle finally blankets the bamboo forest Vayayana is working in, but he tells AFP it is too late. This year, his haul is one-third of 2022's harvest. Worse, Vayayana and his family must now also contend with crop-raiding monkeys, he explains after an airgun shot rings out in the distance: his cousin trying to scare away the marauders. "Because many surrounding bamboo forests have died, now where there are bamboo shoots, all the monkeys will go," he says. 'Frontline victims' Southern Taiwan is experiencing its worst drought in decades. Water levels in the Tsengwen reservoir serving the southern Tainan and Chiayi regions plummeted below 10 percent this year, the third such drop since 2018, leaving reservoir beds cracked and exposed. The Tsengwen serves as a primary water source for a massive foundry making the island's precious semiconductors -- soaring in demand globally -- and also supplements the region's rice-growing plains. But for the third year in a row, the government is providing subsidies to farmers not to plant their crops -- a sign of the severe water needs. An hour's drive from the reservoir, Alishan too is experiencing drastic weather changes. From January to April, rainfall declined to 226.5 millimeters (8.9 inches), a more than 50 percent drop compared to the same period last year, according to Taiwan's Central Weather Station. For the Tsou -- whose lifestyle is entwined with nature -- the impact is "comprehensive", says Greenpeace Taiwan's Lena Chang. "They are the frontline victims of climate change," Chang tells AFP. Data compiled by Greenpeace Taiwan shows the drop-off in rain to be persistent. In the past three decades, Alishan has lost an average of 2.6mm of rainfall per year in February and 1.2mm in March -- a vital period for bamboo shoot growth. At T'fuya's crop collection point, villagers offload sacks of bamboo shoots from trucks, weighing them before sending them to factories to be boiled and tinned for mass consumption. "This year, the rain came too late and many bamboo trees are sick. The harvest is very bad," Voyu Baniana, 24, tells AFP. "In my family's plantation, we have none. I can only work for other people this year." New cash crop Those who returned to their villages after a period of working in cities are finding it harder to live off of crops they grew up cultivating. Voyo Yulunana, 43, still remembers the long days he spent as a child harvesting bamboo shoots, the sale of which bolstered the community's living standards. "Buying a car or building a house, we counted on the bamboo," he says. Since Yulunana returned from a brief stint in the city working in construction, he has noticed "the rains don't come when they should". Luckily, his grandfather made a switch to growing coffee beans, which Yulunana and other younger Tsou have shifted toward in the past decade. "Coffee is slowly replacing bamboo shoots as the cash crop" in Alishan, says Yulunana. But even it is not immune to climate change -- a late spring rain affects the plant's flowering season, and the erratic weather last year nearly devastated his family's 400-shrub crop, he said. "At this point, I can get by with just growing coffee," Yulunana said. "Who knows what new crops will appear after coffee?" The post Taiwan tribe despairs as drought shrinks bamboo crop appeared first on Daily Tribune......»»
Cantonese culinary bounty at Cebu’s Hai Shin Lou
[caption id="attachment_122242" align="aligncenter" width="479"] photographs courtesy of Hai Shin Lou | Roel Constantino, general manager of Marco Polo Plaza Hotel.[/caption] Chinese cuisine is one of the oldest in the world. And yet, it manages to evolve and develop into one of the most popular culinary fares. One such Chinese restaurant in Cebu, which continues to receive accolades from food enthusiasts and gourmands, is Hai Shin Lou of Makati fame at Cebu’s very own hilltop Marco Polo Hotel. [caption id="attachment_122247" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Peppercorn Squid.[/caption] [caption id="attachment_122248" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Roasted Pork Belly.[/caption] It is impossible to mention this authentic Chinese restaurant without highlighting the soul of its kitchen, chef Kenny Yong Tze Hin, popularly known as Chef Kenny. [caption id="attachment_122243" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Chef Kenny Yong Tze Hin.[/caption] Captivated by the delicate nuances of Cantonese cuisine, which traces its origins back to 2000 years ago in early Han Dynasty, Chef Kenny started as a young cook in 1992 at Hotel Equatorial’s famous Golden Phoenix in Kuala Lumpur. He has since spearheaded the Chinese culinary cuisine teams in various parts of Asia. “These days, Cantonese cooking requires a fine balance between traditional cooking methods and innovative ideas and presentations,” says Chef Kenny. “But one must never lose the authenticity of taste, precise timing and freshness of ingredients which make Cantonese one of the top cuisines in the world.” We recently had the opportunity to savor the Chinese bounty in an eight-course sit-down dinner. [caption id="attachment_122246" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Boneless Chicken with Rice Chiu Chow Style.[/caption] The evening’s menu consisted of Deep-Fried Mu Don Prawn for appetizer, followed by Braised Minced Fish, Bamboo Pith and Chinese Yuan Xi Corn Soup. The selection of dimsum included Steamed Double Happiness Prawn Dumpling, and authentic Cha Shao Bao and Deep-Fried Taro Puff with Black Pepper and Spring Roll Cigars. [caption id="attachment_122245" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Chinese Cold Platter.[/caption] The star of a main course was the unforgettable Roasted Crispy Sesame Duck, Hong Kong style with Braised E-Fu Noodles. For dessert, Chilled Black Glutinous Rice, Sago Topping and Coconut Sauce gave the feast a sweet ending. Chef Kenny introduced each dish and explained the cooking techniques used, from stir-frying, boiling, steaming, braising and roasting. Most of them can preserve the original and natural flavor of food material. Although Chinese food is usually paired with tea, various wines from the collection of James and Chimene Roberts, the wine connoisseurs of DnB Wines and Spirits, were relished. [caption id="attachment_122244" align="aligncenter" width="525"] James and Chimene Roberts of DnB Wines and Spirits.[/caption] Looking forward, Chef Kenny will explore healthy eating habits by looking at different ways to season while keeping the purest essence of Cantonese flavors. Chi chi chi… Eat and drink well! The post Cantonese culinary bounty at Cebu’s Hai Shin Lou appeared first on Daily Tribune......»»
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