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London Fashion Week throws spotlight on young designers
After New York, the fashion world descends on London from Friday, showcasing big names such as Burberry but also the work of young designers who could become household names of the future. Last year's event, billed as a comeback after disruption due to the Covid pandemic, was overshadowed by the death of Queen Elizabeth II and 10 days of national mourning. This year, more than 80 designers are set to present their spring/summer 2024 collections, with around 50 catwalk shows and other presentations. "It's going to be five really exciting days full of creativity," said Caroline Rush, chief executive of organizers the British Fashion Council (BFC). Fashion bible Vogue rolled out the red carpet on Thursday night for a gala launch event. But in the world of fashion, London is enduring a post-Covid slump, with inflation -- the highest in the G7 at 6.8 percent in July -- and Brexit combining to create a depressed economic backdrop. That has left the British capital trailing Paris, Milan, and New York in the fashion week stakes. In a sign of its loss of influence, even British former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham has crossed the Channel to present her designs in Paris since last year. Fresh UK funding On Wednesday, the UK government announced £2 million ($2.5 million) to support young designers, which will go to the BFC's existing NewGen program. The scheme, which over the last 30 years has supported the best young fashion designers, aims to launch the high-end global brands of tomorrow. The UK government funding will go towards the staging of five fashion weeks over two years, said the BFC. Previous recipients include the legendary Alexander McQueen, who died in 2010. On Saturday, the Design Museum in London is presenting an exhibition celebrating young NewGen talents, and the energy they have brought to the industry. "REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion" showcases about 100 designs, some of which have gone down in pop culture history. This year, about 20 designers are benefiting from the NewGen program. Most are recent graduates, but who have already managed to dress some of the biggest stars. Outfits by Ukrainian designer Masha Popova have been worn by singer Dua Lipa. Di Petsa has dressed actress Zendaya. Among the more established names are 16Arlington, JW Anderson, Molly Goddard, Richard Quinn, Roksanda, and Simone Rocha. But Burberry, the London fashion house founded in 1856, remains the most eagerly awaited show. It takes place on Monday afternoon and will be only the second collection for British creative director Daniel Lee, following on from his February show. The ex-Bottega Veneta designer replaced Riccardo Tisci a year ago. Sales have soared in China for the brand with the distinctive check print. On the final day, Tuesday, Ukrainian designers will present their collections, with London once again hosting Ukrainian Fashion Week due to Russia's invasion. The BFC is also trying to make London an increasingly inclusive venue for catwalk shows. It has launched a survey aimed at all those working in the sector, with questions on their gender, sexual orientation, religion, and social background. "The audit is long overdue and marks the first step towards the vital measurement of the UK fashion industry's collective progress towards the goal of fair representation," the BFC said. The results will be announced later this year. Another must-see fashion event in London is the exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto", which opens on Saturday at the V&A museum. It retraces the 60-year career of "Coco" Chanel, featuring some of her greatest creations that revolutionized women's wardrobes. (AFP Photos) [caption id="attachment_184160" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Canadian model Winnie Harlow poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184161" align="aligncenter" width="525"] British model Jodie Turner-Smith poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184162" align="aligncenter" width="525"] British model Georgia May Jagger poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184163" align="aligncenter" width="525"] Irish writer Sinead Burke poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] [caption id="attachment_184164" align="aligncenter" width="525"] British actress Simone Ashley poses upon arrival to attend the "Vogue World: London" event at the Theatre Royal Drury Lane in central London on the eve of London Fashion Week on 14 September 2023. (Photo by HENRY NICHOLLS / AFP)[/caption] The post London Fashion Week throws spotlight on young designers appeared first on Daily Tribune......»»
UK deputy PM resigns after most bullying claims upheld
UK Deputy Prime Minister Dominic Raab announced his resignation on Friday after bullying claims against him were upheld in a report, a fresh political shock for Britain's Conservatives. Raab's resignation gives Prime Minister Rishi Sunak a headache some two weeks before local elections at which the Conservatives are expected to lose seats. He is also battling to claw back a chasm of lost ground to the main opposition Labor Party before a general election next year. Raab, who stood in for former prime minister Boris Johnson as he battled Covid in 2020, had promised to quit if any claims against him were upheld. But even though he was cleared of most of the allegations, he blasted the conclusions of a lawyer-led inquiry. "Whilst I feel duty-bound to accept the outcome of the inquiry, it dismissed all but two of the claims leveled against me," he wrote in a resignation letter. "I also believe that its two adverse findings are flawed and set a dangerous precedent for the conduct of good government." The bar for bullying was set so low, he said, that "it will encourage spurious complaints against ministers and have a chilling effect on those driving change". Raab also resigned from his post as justice secretary, where he has had to battle a backlog in criminal cases caused by years of under-funding and disruptions caused by the pandemic. He previously served as Brexit minister and foreign secretary but was moved from that post after being criticized for failing to return from holiday as Afghanistan fell to the Taliban. Sunak, who succeeded the short-lived Liz Truss in October last year, vowed to restore "integrity, professionalism, and accountability" in government after Johnson's rollercoaster tenure. He previously sacked Nadhim Zahawi as Conservative party chairman over his tax affairs. Gavin Williamson, a former defense secretary who kept a tarantula on his desk while in charge of party discipline in parliament, quit over expletive-laden messages. Low bar Former lawyer Raab, a karate black belt, has denied bullying civil servants working for him and in his letter rejected allegations of an overbearing manner with colleagues. He insisted in his letter that ministers "must be able to exercise direct oversight with respect to senior officials over critical negotiations conducted on behalf of the British people". Not to do so, he said, would mean the loss of "the democratic and constitutional principle of ministerial responsibility". He also maintained ministers "must be able to give direct critical feedback on briefings and submissions to senior officials in order to set the standards and drive the reform the public expect of us". "Of course, this must be done within reasonable bounds," he went on. Sunak appointed senior employment lawyer Adam Tolley to look into the claims in November and he submitted his report to Sunak on eight allegations on Thursday. The report has yet to be published. But Raab said Tolley "concluded that I had not once, in four and a half years, sworn or shouted at anyone let alone thrown anything or otherwise physically intimated anyone, nor intentionally sought to belittle anyone". "I am genuinely sorry for any unintended stress or offense that any officials felt, as a result of the pace, standards, and challenge that I brought to the Ministry of Justice," he added. "That is, however, what the public expects of ministers working on their behalf." The post UK deputy PM resigns after most bullying claims upheld appeared first on Daily Tribune......»»
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